Choosing the Right Ruby Jewelry

Diamonds are graded using the 4 Cs as a grading system, including clarity, cut, color and carat. Rubies are graded in precisely the same way, though where the ruby comes from may also be taken into consideration when determining its value, which is not true of diamonds.

Color

The single most significant factor that affects a ruby's value is its color. A ½ carat ruby that is pigeon blood-red can be worth many times a stone that is four or five times its size if the coloring is not right. The color of rubies is divided into three sub-categories; hue, saturation and tone. The hue of a ruby refers to its "color" as we normally understand the word. The primary hue of all rubies is red, and if there is any other color (such as pink, purple, blue, green or yellow), then the stone is classified as a sapphire.

The saturation quality of a ruby is how deeply the color seems to penetrate into the stone. The more saturated a color is, the darker and richer it seems to the naked eye. High saturation leads to darker stones that seem more "complete" compared to lightly saturated stones which will seem more pale and transparent in color.

Treated Stones

There are treatments given to virtually all gemstones in order to improve their quality and value on the world market. Completely untreated stones are rare, and are not necessarily more valuable. Treatments for rubies may include healing of cracks or fissures, altering the color, or improving the transparency of the stone by dissolving minor imperfections. Usually these treatments are done by applying heat. These treatments of heat usually happen around temperatures of 3,300 degrees Fahrenheit. This treatment process has the unfortunate effect of mildly breaking the "silk" in a ruby, but not completely.

Another treatment process that is generally less-acceptable is lead glass filling. This is done to fill in the fractures of a stone and it significantly improves the transparency of the ruby, and may make those stones that were once unfit for jewelry seem to be more acceptable.

Choosing Your Ruby

Be sure to ask about the history of any ruby that you are interested in buying. Ask if it has been treated in any way, and if so, what type of treatment it has undergone. Don't settle for a simple pat answer that the ruby has undergone "heat treatment" since virtually all treatments for rubies involve heat to some degree or another, including the lead glass filling.

Another question you will want to pose when considering ruby jewelry is about the stone's history. Many stones have a history of a prior owner, since they are typically as immortal as a diamond and may be passed on for many generations. If you are interested only in rubies that are pure and not lead glass filled, or with a history of prior ownership, you have a right to seek and receive honest answers to this information before making your buying decision.